MAGO COLIBRÍ

This last days of the year I was at Chonta, specifically at the sector of Reina del Sur trying my last proyect: Mago Colibrí 8b. This 45 meter sweetness line is the right extension of "Guerrera Cosmica" (Cosmic Warrior) wich starts with a boulder to continue with an endurace race to the first anchors; from here the extension begins, giving you the welcoming message with a dyno and a long bouldery crux to lead you after another 9 bolts to the second anchor.
The first day I arrived  with enough time to set the quickdraws that were left on my first burn and climb another go already using my headtorch (of course promising dinner and some wine for the brave belayer: thanks, Gnomo) but I was really tired from the driving and under pressure because of the time so I failed at the same movement of always, even when the conditions couldn't be any better (the best time for climbing at Chonta is at night because the heat and humidity of the day).
The next morning I woke up not very early, cooked breakfast (mmmmm, chocolate milk!) and decided to warm up on the line and maybe to revise the crux movements, the last thing I was expecting that day is to send: Last night was not comfortable at all, my undermat got a puncture and my right arm and shoulder were in sore, being weary, you know, when you got the feeling that it will be one of those days...
I started climbing not really a muerte, did the Guerrera's crux only because I knew the movements, feeling heavy and hard to breath in a relaxed way, I had no chance that go, at least is what I thought. Meanwhile I was climbing higher and higher I felt how I was recovering my strenght, and felt no more sore at the forearms, recovered my respiration rythm and had that tickly feeling that borns from your spine and goes all over your body and goes at skin level, I arrived to the first anchor and just shaked my arms a couple of times and chalked my hands, did the dyno really easy, I did'nt even think about the move and get into the kneebar rest, I was completely focused, didn't feel tired so I get directly into the long crux, I was doing all the movements without thinking in nothing elese, everything was flowing, like in a sort of zen mode, everything was perfect and I didn't want to end with that feeling, that perfect time when you're just in what you are doing, nothing else exist, you forget everything and you're just living the moment, if you're a climber probably you know what I'm talking about.

Ready for the dyno! Passing the first anchor, photo by Andres Vega

By that time I grabbed and hold from the last sloper where I was falling from and went for the crimp to clip the next bolt. There was my highest point reached without falls and there was also a little little rest from all the slopy/pinchy moves (the crimp is not the best but at least I was able to relax my hands from the pinch tension). That is the trickiest part of any climb and where climbers use to fall cause when we realise what we have done ocasionally we lose the concentration and sometimes it's really hard to get it back. I realised where I was standing and started to be a little bit shaky but get decided fast and continued with the climb until I catched the last hold and clipped the second anchor. That was a delightful climbing!! One of the best I've ever done! Now, that I send my project I had two more days to relax at the neighbor crag, Dos Bocas and have a little swimm in the camping pool!

Testing the marathonic master piece! Photo by Andres Vega

 Happy christmas sends to everyone!!

VIVA LA VIDA!!

Like some of you already know, I decided to make a climbing trip last year (The whole year, yeeeeeaaahh!!). I thought there was no evidence about that but a few days ago a video just poped up into the web. It's filmed and edited by a very good friend of mine from South Africa, Micky Wiswedel. The hole crew in Siurana, Rodellar, Margalef and some other cool spots! Enjoy it!!

Viva la vida!! Part 1

Viva La Vida pt1 from Micky on Vimeo.

Viva la vida!! Part 2

Viva la Vida Part 2 from Micky on Vimeo.

Viva la vida!! Part 3

Viva la Vida pt3 from Micky on Vimeo.

Uuuuhhhhhh! Is somebody psyked about going climbing?!?! Until next time!! Good climbs! ;-)

MARATONIX 2

I would like to introduce you the ONIX!! Wich is the name of my local boulder gym, where friends and I usually go training and gossiping (hehe). This is a nice place where we've  everything we need: chalk, a woody and... bikini girls with cold drinks!!! ok ok, as you imagine there are no bikini girls but they have cold drinks so you should go.

Andres taking it easy on a V4. Source: encadenemexico.com

Richie showing how it's done on this V7. Source: encadenemexico.com

The Maratonix 2 was the second edition (yes, as the number marks) of the annual competition wich involves around 84 boulders from V1 to V8. Each boulder problem have a certain amount of points and the competition is three and a half hours long so it's also about strategy ;) Of course, the winner will be the man or woman with more points when the time runs over.

Girl power at the Maratonix! Sofía and Marcela. Photo by Carlos Cardona

Steady as she goes! Isabel Silva. Source: encadenemexico.com

Einar attempting this nice V4. Photo by Carlos Cardona

Especially for me this is one of my favourite comps because it's relaxed and without pressure, it's just for fun and nice prices are awarding! There are four categories and change of name every gathering; this time was Orangutang, Chimpanzee, Mandrill and Squirrel Monkey (guess which name is which category!)

Pimpin' and crimpin' with Dersu, Ivan and Oscar! Photo by Carlos Cardona

This time there were about 150 competitors with this results:

ORANGUTAN
   1) Hernan García
   2) Bruno García
   3) Alan Luna
   4) Diego López
   5) Miguel Hernández
   6) Rodrigo Reskala

Hung up on tops!! Me on the last minute boulders! Pic by Carlos Cardona

CHIMPANZEE
   1) Ricardo García
   2) Ivan Monroy
   3) Andrés Villar

Fer in high spirits for climbing! Photo by Carlos Cardona

MANDRILL
   1) Carlos Sevilla
   2) Jazael
   3) Braulio Pérez

I don't even remember this one! hehe Photo by Carlos Cardona

SQUIRREL MONKEY
   1) Sofía Heinze
   2) Ronny Meza
   3) Francisco Santos

David Leleu firing up this problem! Photo by Carlos Cardona

The result wasn't bad at all. I achieved to climb 65 boulders and reach the puntuation of 12660!! If you're interested you can also visit the ONIX WEBSITE.

Till next time and have a good climb!

BOULDER & WINE

If you're envolved to rock climbing since a few time you will know that the climbing lifestyle it's not only about rocks and chalk. Climbing it's also about traveling, learning, discovery and why not? PARTY!

This time Fer Gonzalez, Oscar Trías, Andrea, Manu Villa, Daniel Tapia, Sofía Heinze, Marcela Gutierrez and me had the opportunity to visit the wine cellars of Freixenet during the grape harvest season. The plan was to visit the cellars on saturday and bouldering during sunday (yeaaahh, sure!). So the Freixenet cellars would be the first stop in the schedule.

Welcome to the wine route!!!

The Freixenet cellars -rised originally in Catalunya, Spain- are housed inside the wine producer region of San Juan del Río in Ezequiel Montes, Querétaro. This is a special location because it's just perfect for the grape growing due the optimal geoclimatic characteristics. Owing to the height (2000 masl) and the contrasting temperatures during the day and night a peculiar and extreme grape ripening it's produced... wich is well spent, basically  in the production of sparkling wine and the rest in red wine.

Mmmmmm, fresh sweet sparkling wine!!

... Oh Lord, oh Lord!! Saturday was just out of the league! That was a day full of dancing, singing, partying, furniture bouldering (we are table bouldering experts) and of course... drinking wine and eat a lot!! Everything was perfect, including the little fright of lose Tomas, our canine petite compagnon (and get him back after).

 That was an intense day with the perfect ending talking and watching the stars in a beautiful night next to Peña de Bernal.

Spending some skin on "Fusión V7/7a+" A beauty classic in Boulder City. Photo by Manu Villa

Pedro G. pulling hard in the sector of "Las afueras" . Photo by Manu Villa

At next day and not very early we pick up the tents and we went disposed to climb. The crushing list was not very extense due the last day but anyway was fun and productive.

Some of the sends of that weekend were:

-> O le brincas o le trincas V7/7a+

-> Prohibido caerse V5/6c

-> Plumas voladoras V4/6b

-> La rueda de la fortuna V3/6a+

-> Carenalga V4/6b

-> El Mesero V5/6c

-> Floripondia V4/6b

-> Blocote V2/5+

-> Los Pelos V2/5+

->Petirojo V1/5

As people say: An image is better than a thousand words... Thats why I left you a video. Filmed and edited by Daniel Tapia

freixenet boulders & wine 2011 from daniel ricardo on Vimeo.
Making John Wayne to be proud!! Next time!!

Come on!! I know where the boulders are!! Pic by Manu Villa.

THE CHONTA (C)RUSH!!

This week, since the bad weather Fer, Santi and I decided to go for 4 days to Chontalcoatlán (Chonta to apocopate), the only crag near Mexico City that feels still climbable. This stalagtite paradise is 150 km far away from the city of Mexico and about 25-30 km away from the town of Taxco.

This town is located at the north of the state of Guerrero and is also knowed as the mexican capital of the silverware (a lot of the local craftsmen works on silver as a tradition in this town due to the mining history of the place). Taxco is a beauty middle-sized town with colony style, cobbled paving roads and warm weather.

The town of Taxco, with the church standing out about the houses. Photo by David Bank www.david-bank.com

 

Taxco's center during the weekend. A nice option if you don't want to cook! Photo by Alberto Miranda

Climbing, right!? Thats why we are here!... We finally landed in Chonta (not that early by the way), after an epic ride across the city! This crag is a 200 meter deep stalactite-filled monster cave with ridicously awesome  wild climbing, offering 45º terrain on huge holds!

The first day we only had the chance to put up our quick-draws on our respective projects: Fer went straight to "El Corrido de Los Procopio 7a+/12a" at the "Besucona" sector giving some solid burns and getting really close to win the meal of the day, falling only at the last pair of moves of the crux section. Santi also tried "El Corrido" with a different beta and nice results.

By my side I was busy giving a burn on "Las 3 Atenciones 8a+/13c" on the "Reina del Sur"sector and trying to figure out wich draw of this fourty-something meter extension needed to be long and how to avoid the wasps'nest  from my way (yeah! fun and pumpy!). This route is the extension of "El Amate Amarillo 7b+/12c" wich is a long endurance battle until the anchors with tricky hidden jams and tufa pulling! 

Emilio Placencia on the "Amate Amarillo 7b+/12c". Photo by Miguel Enríquez.

 Whenever you reach the first anchor the real fight begins!... Starts from the knee-bar rest at the anchor to some long reaches between tufas to arrive to the first crux; on first sight and from below you'll see a well shaped-juggy-saviour pocket that for sure you'll try to  dyno (like me on the first time) but naaahhhh!! Not this time my friend! Thats just an illusion that God put it there to make fun of you when you're falling!!... In fact thats a very bad sloper for the left hand to another sloppery pocket with the right to a hard undercling.  (Anyway, its always fun to watch people try that move for the first time). After that it's easy money to the second rest, a nice sit where you'll take the most of advantage that you can because the hard crux starts  riiiiight there... When you reach for a sloper with right and after a hard crossing sequence to a technical sidepulling moves sequence that will drain from you all the juice left... at least for the last few moves to the anchors and at almost 40 meters high!!!! You don't wanna fall!!! You don't wanna repeat all those moves again and sweat the entire liter of water that you just drank!! You just want to reach the anchors and have a good bottle of wine!!...Well, if you think like that up there you  will have your motivation  (at least it worked for me!).

The second day Fer only needed one more attemp to send the route and Santi as well. After, I tried again my project... changing/fixing draws and finding beta for the upper crux. Just two tries, no more! Fer and Santi took the oportunity and tried "El Amate Amarillo 7b+/12c" figuring out their beta :)

On the third day I sent!!! During the warming up try I felt so good that I proposed to myself  that if I manage to climb to the sit I'll try it a muerte! And guess what! A little birthday present for me!! Sent it after the 4th try during 3 days, stoked!!

After I tried to put up the draws on "Biatch 7b/12b" but during my onsight, after the crux I discovered a giant wasps'nest so Fer and I kept with the sending wish! Then we get down to the bottom of the cavern to give a shot to "Mantis 7b/12b" (me, now as a happy belayer) and tried only once cause it was starting to get late and there was no more sunlight  at that side of the grotte (and no more juice after 3 tries on the Amate) so she studied basically the crux and one rest after.

Jaime Velasco after a burn on "Mantis 7b/12b". Photo by Emilio Placencia.

 At the morning of the day four I decided to try Suc de Taronja (grapefruit juice), a full 30 meters route with 2 hard bouldery cruxes divided by a good ledge. I had no troubles to solve the first crux because I worked it before (the same start than "Pepita de Oro 8a/+--13b/c"). 

On the sending attemp in "Suc de Taronja". Photo by Arturo González

Where is Ralph?? Ralph on the excelent rest of "Suc de Taronja". Photo by Arturo G.

After the ledge there was the other boulder crux which I tried before but with the wrong beta. This time I tried with a diferent sequence (which Ralph and Gilman told me) and it worked!! But there's no time to go to the top so we decided to came down again to try "Mantis". 

Ralph McGuire on the first crux of "Suc de Taronja". Photo by Arturo González

This is a sweet line with very good rests, huge holds but a killer 30 meters long! So you better have a good cardio if you want to try it! The bottom half is an easy but scary slab that finishes in a very good rest heading to a roof crux with powerful moves between stalagtites and pockety holds to follow into a good rest and from there keep on moving into pumpy climbing. Fer dialed this sequence in quickly and sent this bad boy in 4 goes!!

Until then, the Procopio kids arrived and started to load the donkeys with our stuff... time to go for Fer and me, Santi stayed for another day and sent "El Amate Amarillo"!!

Loading the donkeys for the way down. Photo by Arturo G.

I got to say that I kept with this itchy feeling telling me that the next try I'll send "Suc de Taronja" (so nice to have a new beta) so I came back two days after for the weekend with a new bunch of misfits: Arcadi Artis, Beto González, Carlos Cardona and Arturo González.

Arcadi Artis on "Reina del Sur". Photo by Arturo G.

 So I stayed hopped on "Suc de Taronja" and at the first day I warmed up puting up the draws, remembering the crux and tuning my beta! At the second go I blasted the line!! Keeping the psyche high!!

Close but not enough! Ralph McGuire trying the second crux of "Suc de taronja"

 Arcadi and Beto tried "La Reina del Sur 7c/12d", Arturo took it easy because a finger injury and climbed a pair of 6c+/11c and Carlos bolted a new route at the right of "Reina del Sur". Arcadi also bolted the extension of "Reina del Sur".

Beto working beta on "La Reina del Sur". Photo by Arturo G.

Meanwhile I decided to try the project bolted by Diego Montull: "Chanchuyeando" It looks like a good project considering that everything else was wet or it was just too long: FAIL!! The start of the route is a very hard boulder (or I just don't managed to solve the sequence) so I quit and get after the new extension of "Reina del Sur": FAIL AGAIN!! The extension was insanely hard!! 

Arcadi bolting the extension of Reina del Sur! Photo by Carlos Cardona

I'm guessing that the new extension could be 8c/+ (14b/c) So I just cleaned up a little bit, chalked the few holds and yipi ka yei, a new project for the future!! :)

Sorry folks!! No pics of the first days but it was something like this! Source: www.nataliedee.com

If I may say so, we have been crushing!!! Until next time!! Nice climbs!!

CRACKUPS VS M&M'S

Sadly for some (climbers at least), the rainy season finally arrived: The plans for Jilotepec changed sharply and  turned into something steeper!!... The cave of "El Penitente" in Hidalgo it's an excellent choice if you are looking for a nice physical -and dry- climbing during the moisturized noons of summer.

After the two and a half hours way driving from Mexico City and some nasty ruses by the weather we arrived into the town of "El Arenal" -few minutes before Actopan-, a quiet humble town with Otomi origins founded around the earlies 1700's (actually the Otomi word for this settlement were "Mohmu" which means bunch of sand).

The guardian of the Church in El Arenal. Photo by Marco Helu

 At first we gave a few burns in "La Colmena" sector which is depicted by the short and slopery routes and the close aproach from the parking (so yes, it was pure lazyness of the uphill aproaching); There we tried a couple of 12a/7a+ and a 11?/6? After, during the afternoon when the weather becames cooler (and started to drizzle) we decided to go to the main crag, Penitente's Cave.

The Colmena sector, at the distance and from a few meters from the parking.

That was a hard aproaching! We were carrying with plenty of stuff! That day we arrived very late and I only had a chance for two tries (already with headtorch), so I decided to give a burn to the first anchor of "Rarotonga 13a/7c+" and after another one on "Trauma 13a/7c+".

Jaimie testing himself on "Rarotonga 13c/8a+"

David Blanco Focused on the steepness of "Trauma 13a/7c+"

All night long was hazy and humid so the holds became very greasy at the next morning. That doesn't stop us and tried "Kraken 12a/7a+", "Matanga 13b/8a" and the king of the party (for me): "Crackups vs M&M's 13d/8b" I could say that the description of this route it must be LONG... the line it's the linking of the linking of the linking of the routes of the back side of the cave. Starts with "Kraken", a short roof with powerful long moves on skin-biting rock and hard clips to continue with the 4 linking bolts of a traverse of killer slopery crimps (the second crux) heading to the route called "Fatum 13b/8a": writhed tricky moves route with a boulder from a hard pinch on the roof to a handjam (third crux) and finishing with the "gran final" of "En el pecado está la penitencia 13c/8a+" (wich usually is a traverse from left to right but now its from right to left -and in my opinion becomes easier-) a very  powerful boulder on the last meters (when trying it by the normal way).

Fer fighting a muerte on the "Kraken 12a/7a+"!! Photo by Daniel Tapia

Sofía Heinze struggling on the crux of "Penitente 12c/7b+" and me on the rest of Crakups vs M&M's. Photo by Daniel Tapia

Daniel Tapia passing the crux of "Matanga 13b/8a". Photo by Daniel tapia

 Now that I get a project I'm starting to get psyked! I sent  before (2008) the Crackups extension so I remembered vaguely the movements and did almost to the top. This route is perfect to get some motivation and launch myself into harder projects! So let's see what happens now into this pump fest!

Wwhooaaaa!! What a rest!! "Matanga 13b/8a". Photo by David Blanco

Till next time! Take it easy!!

GETTING BACK!

Finally!! After almost 5 months of non sleeping well and hard working at the universtity this weekend I went to Jilotepec, my local climbing area! It was very refreshing to feel the rock again! But its really pity to feel everytime weak or the sensation of being tired fast.

After the proper warming up I decided to sound out my situation so I placed my draws to the half of the route of my old proyect -"Beell Tuunich 13d/8b"-, trying 3 of the 4 cruxes of the route. I had a surprise when I managed to solve the first two cruxes from one pull (not bad!!). That motivates me a lot! 

I just know that I'll get back in shape. It doesn't matter how many times I fall, I always get up. I'll be crushing soon!!

Isabel Silva (Chere) swinging on Numeros Rojos 13d/8b

Peace!

BERNAL ROCK FEST

Just one word could describe this festival (according to our beloved host): Inhuman!!

bernalrockfest.com

It was a long long time ago since I did my firt trip to "Peña Bernal". In those days the goal for me was to climb to the top of that huge wall but after a few visits, when I finished with the classic multipitch routes the crag seemed just boring and without variety... I was certainly worng!

This festival was exactly what I need to discover the other hidden style! Close to two hundred of sweet volcanic rock boulders from V0  and forward to insane projects! It's funny that I never bouldered there before, even when the boulder crag was developed almost 10 years ago!

On june 4 and 5, after 5 hours -usually 2 and a half- driving we (Fitz,his two friends, Poncha and me) finally arrived. This time the way was not fancy or luxurious at all and Poncha and I traveled at the back side of the truck.

Our sunny trip to Peña

We finally arrived to the Chi Chi D'Ho Camping (at the back side of the giant rock) and get into the star chaser comp. The boulders were just amazing and the crowd was close to 500 people!

Front of Peña Bernal. Source: montanismo.org

The entire event was just pure fun, in despite with the quantity of people gathered together on the boulders and the heat of the desert. The main event was the "star chaser competition" where the points were the stars  in the guidebook of each boulder! So, that was an interesting way to organize a comp; that way instead to aim for the hardest boulders you were aiming for the coolest boulders! At the end your score was the summatory of the stars collected (in two team assemble).

The crowd on Capitán Calzón. Source: montanismo.org              Ivan (Poncha) trying a lost boulder forgotten by the rabble

Diego González enjoying of the aesthetic line of Katana V10 at the sector of "El Rancho"

Ivan spoting Fernanda González on "Lado oscuro del corazón". Foto by Daniel Tapia

But the fun doesn't stop there:During the afternoon there was also "push or pull" contest, slacklining and dyno competition! The end of the day was received by the proyection of the movie "Reach!" presented by Madrock.

The dyno comp and Franz (our unshut-up-able and cheerful host) at the slck line.

 So, this crag is amazing and hopefully I'll come back soon! Till next time!

Our way back home! Tha tha!

WELCOME

Hi, welcome to my blog and see you on the rock!

And at the end of the day you know that you did it well. Photo by Michal Wisniewski