This last days of the year I was at Chonta, specifically at the sector of Reina del Sur trying my last proyect: Mago Colibrí 8b. This 45 meter sweetness line is the right extension of "Guerrera Cosmica" (Cosmic Warrior) wich starts with a boulder to continue with an endurace race to the first anchors; from here the extension begins, giving you the welcoming message with a dyno and a long bouldery crux to lead you after another 9 bolts to the second anchor.
The first day I arrived  with enough time to set the quickdraws that were left on my first burn and climb another go already using my headtorch (of course promising dinner and some wine for the brave belayer: thanks, Gnomo) but I was really tired from the driving and under pressure because of the time so I failed at the same movement of always, even when the conditions couldn't be any better (the best time for climbing at Chonta is at night because the heat and humidity of the day).
The next morning I woke up not very early, cooked breakfast (mmmmm, chocolate milk!) and decided to warm up on the line and maybe to revise the crux movements, the last thing I was expecting that day is to send: Last night was not comfortable at all, my undermat got a puncture and my right arm and shoulder were in sore, being weary, you know, when you got the feeling that it will be one of those days...
I started climbing not really a muerte, did the Guerrera's crux only because I knew the movements, feeling heavy and hard to breath in a relaxed way, I had no chance that go, at least is what I thought. Meanwhile I was climbing higher and higher I felt how I was recovering my strenght, and felt no more sore at the forearms, recovered my respiration rythm and had that tickly feeling that borns from your spine and goes all over your body and goes at skin level, I arrived to the first anchor and just shaked my arms a couple of times and chalked my hands, did the dyno really easy, I did'nt even think about the move and get into the kneebar rest, I was completely focused, didn't feel tired so I get directly into the long crux, I was doing all the movements without thinking in nothing elese, everything was flowing, like in a sort of zen mode, everything was perfect and I didn't want to end with that feeling, that perfect time when you're just in what you are doing, nothing else exist, you forget everything and you're just living the moment, if you're a climber probably you know what I'm talking about.
Ready for the dyno! Passing the first anchor, photo by Andres Vega

By that time I grabbed and hold from the last sloper where I was falling from and went for the crimp to clip the next bolt. There was my highest point reached without falls and there was also a little little rest from all the slopy/pinchy moves (the crimp is not the best but at least I was able to relax my hands from the pinch tension). That is the trickiest part of any climb and where climbers use to fall cause when we realise what we have done ocasionally we lose the concentration and sometimes it's really hard to get it back. I realised where I was standing and started to be a little bit shaky but get decided fast and continued with the climb until I catched the last hold and clipped the second anchor. That was a delightful climbing!! One of the best I've ever done! Now, that I send my project I had two more days to relax at the neighbor crag, Dos Bocas and have a little swimm in the camping pool!
Testing the marathonic master piece! Photo by Andres Vega
 Happy christmas sends to everyone!!

1 comment:

  1. Why did you stop writing? Keep on doing the thing.